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What started out looking like a dismal season for California skiers has turned, almost overnight, into a banner year. On New Year’s Day, Squaw Valley reported a cumulative snowfall of only 41 inches at an elevation of 6200 feet (and 123 inches at 8200). Less than a week later, those totals jumped to 61 and 159 inches, respectively.
Clearly, it’s time to hit Interstate 80.
The north end of Lake Tahoe has a lot more to offer than powdery slopes and Nordic trails, of course. Shops, restaurants and bars are clustered in Truckee and smaller towns. But for pure convenience and abundant options, it’s hard to beat the Village at Squaw Valley.
The place is geared to downhill skiers – the ski lifts are only a three-minute trek from any of the Village’s luxurious condominiums – but there are plenty of other activities and attractions. And then there are the extras, such as ski lockers and even heated underground garages. Other amenities include sports shops, boutiques, several restaurants, a full-service spa and a children’s activities center. Guests can easily spend an entire weekend without having to leave the complex in order to dine, shop, work out or kick back in front of their own private stone hearth fireplace.
Skiers who haven’t recently visited Squaw Valley – which was carved out of the mountain just in time to host the 1960 Winter Olympic Games – will probably be surprised at how different the place looks and feels these days. The Village opened in 2002 on seven acres originally occupied by a parking lot.
Intrawest, the developer of village-centered resorts at Whistler/Blackcomb, Mammoth and Keystone, determined that a similar design would be appropriate for the Sierra Nevada mountains. A cluster of beige-and-teal Bavarian-inspired buildings enclose a rambling central courtyard lined with shops and restaurants. The upper three floors are occupied by 276 condominium studios and suites, many of them overlooking the pedestrian-only plaza.
The interior décor blends comfortable, custom furnishings with Craftsman-style lamps, sconces and other accent pieces. Color schemes lean to olive, mustard and earth tones that suit the pine tables and chairs and granite counter tops. Wooden plantation shutters cover French doors opening onto balconies featuring either village or mountain views. For extra warmth, gas fireplaces set in stone hearths can be ignited with just the flick of a switch, and the slate tiles on both the kitchen and bathroom floors are heated.
All the suites – including the huge three-bedroom ones – have a full bathroom for every bedroom, DVD players and high-speed Internet access.
The kitchens are fully equipped and supplied with tableware. Travelers can bring their own food, shop in the courtyard market and wine shop, and/or ask the “grocery concierge” to deliver organic produce and other groceries.
Bear in mind that the Village, which has a 24-hour front desk concierge, may look like a hotel, but the accommodations are privately owned units in a rental program and services are somewhat limited; for example, bathrobes are available, but only upon request.
Each of the three condo buildings has exercise rooms and outdoor spa tubs. Note that there is a $10 per-room fee for access to these particular amenities as well as to the media room and high-speed Internet.
Even non-skiers have options for getting their hearts pumping and their skin flushed with that healthy wintertime glow. They can go ice skating at the Olympic Ice Pavilion at High Camp or try snowshoeing, cross-country skiing or snow tubing. Then there is indoor and outdoor rock climbing at the Headwall Cafe & Squaw Valley Adventure Center.
In the old days, of course, Squaw Valley offered skiing and little else. Now that it is a resort destination, vacationers can choose to ignore the mountain altogether and spend their precious getaway time getting pampered.
The tropical island-inspired treatments at Trilogy Spa serve as a counterpoint to the alpine ambiance of the Village. The Lehua Honey-Drenched Steam Wrap starts with a sea-salt exfoliation and includes a moisturizing massage and a soothing wrap infused with coconut milk and macadamia nut oil. Another signature session is the Lomi Pohaku Hot Stone Massage, which combines the long strokes of Hawaiian-style massage with the healing touch of smooth warm stones. And for an alternative to the typical après-ski scene, patrons can mingle and sip wine in the Lava Lounge Barefoot Bar while they sample mini-treatments for hands and feet.
The Village has half-a-dozen restaurants and cafes, including the Auld Dubliner pub and Mamasake, where sushi, sake and inventive sashimi dishes are served amid the din of televised sports programs.
For a romantic dinner, the best choice is the PlumpJack Balboa Café, an American-style brasserie. In addition to a changing roster of chicken, seafood, meat and pasta dishes, the restaurant is known for its duck and pork specials and its extensive wine list.
Connoisseurs can also shop for favorite bottles at the Black Diamond Wine Exchange. In addition to several places selling resort clothing and equipment, the courtyard has specialty shops such as Edin Boutique (dressy accessories), Occhiali (fashion eyewear as well as repair and prescription services) and Splash Bath & Body (handmade soap, face masks, body scrubs, etc.).
But hands – or paws – down, the best retailer in Squaw Valley has to be Tails By The Lake. From sleeping bags to fancy collars to fresh-baked treats, the range of merchandise here leaves shoppers absolutely slack-jawed.
Tails By The Lake should definitely be the last stop for pet owners who don’t want to feel guilty when they return home from a relaxing, carefree getaway.
Downhill Skiing Details
Squaw Valley offers 4,000 acres of skiable terrain, 25 percent of it rated beginner; 45 percent intermediate; and 30 percent advanced. The runs are accessible via the Funitel, the Cable Car, the KT-22 high-speed quad and several base area chair lifts. Ski passes cost $62 for adults and $31 for juniors (13-15) and seniors (65-75). For more information, visit www.squaw.com.
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